INPUT: Water, energy and chemicals

Main Production Resources

After raw hides, water, energy, and chemicals are the most important inputs in the tanning process. Efficient management of these resources is essential for the proper operation of a tannery. At the same time, initiatives and projects aimed at improving resource efficiency—particularly with a focus on minimizing environmental impact—are key to enhancing a tannery’s sustainability.

Water Consumption

After raw hides, water is the most critical raw material in the leather tanning process. Most manufacturing processes take place in aqueous baths, as water is essential for enabling chemicals to penetrate raw hides.

Water use is both an environmental and economic concern. The costs associated with water management represent one of the most significant expenses in a tannery’s environmental budget.

Water is used during the wet stages of tanning, for steam production, in washing and cleaning cycles, and in abatement and cooling systems. While it serves as the medium for most tanning processes, it is not consumed in them—95% of the water used in tanning is sent to wastewater treatment plants for purification.

From an environmental perspective, water supply and purification are among the most critical factors for the tanning industry.

In 2023, water consumption was recorded at 116 litres per square metre of leather produced, with a 22-year average of just over 119 L/m².

Water consumption

116.7 [L/m2]

2023 data

-21.7%

Change 2002/2023

Water Supply

Tanneries source water from authorized artesian wells (regulated by specific laws) or industrial and municipal aqueducts under contract. The reported data is collected through meter readings from internal wells and/or industrial aqueducts, ensuring accurate accounting.

Beyond being the primary medium for chemical processes, water is also used to wash hides, machinery, and workspaces. Tannery water consumption largely depends on the type and mix of raw materials being processed, which vary based on the final product. Tanneries that carry out the full cycle (from raw hides to finished leather) have higher overall water consumption compared to those that process semi-finished materials, such as wet blue.

Energy Consumption

Leather production requires both electrical energy (to operate machinery) and thermal energy (to heat process water and equipment).

In recent years, the Italian leather industry has significantly reduced energy consumption per unit of production while increasing the use of renewable energy sources and high-efficiency cogeneration plants.

Energy consumption

1.01
[TOE/1000 m2]

2023 data

-29%

Change 2003/2023

42%

Renewable energy out of total energy consumption

84%

Renewable energy out of total purchased electricity

Energy consumption is measured in Tons of Oil Equivalent per 1,000 square meters of leather produced (TOE/1,000 m²). In 2023, the recorded value was 1.01 TOE/1,000 m², * which puts the average over the 21-year data collection period at 1.05 TOE/1,000 m2.

While natural gas and other fossil fuels remain the primary sources of thermal energy in tanneries, electricity sources are more diverse and vary depending on suppliers. The use of renewable energy has been steadily increasing, with more companies meeting significant portions of their energy needs through sustainable sources.

Since the Sustainability Report is based on sample surveys, there is some variability in unit energy consumption. This fluctuation results from differences in energy-intensive production processes, raw material mixes, and the energy efficiency of machinery and equipment.

Tanneries can reduce energy consumption in several ways:

Investing in more efficient machinery and equipment
Developing less energy-intensive processes
Improving management practices and low-cost efficiency measures

Chemical Consumption

Chemicals play a crucial role in modifying the structure of hides and providing the necessary aesthetic and physical-chemical properties to produce leather.

Tanning chemistry is continuously evolving. Thanks to collaboration between tanneries and chemical manufacturers, new products are developed to improve efficacy, environmental compatibility, and workplace safety. These advancements allow for the production of high-performance leather items while ensuring continuous innovation and improvement.

Chemical consuption

2.1 [kg/m2]

2023 data

In 2023, chemical consumption was recorded at approximately 2.1 kg/m² of finished leather.

Tanneries continue to invest in environmentally friendly chemical solutions, conducting tests and experiments to enhance sustainability. Their commitment is reflected in adherence to industry initiatives such as ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) and numerous environmental process and product certifications.

Click here to learn more about the safe management of chemicals in tanneries and the activities developed to support them